Check out my $8.00 score over at Etsy! Two way cool Marian Martin shirtwaist patterns. Two, mind you!!!!
Yaw’ll know I have a love affair going on with shirtwaists. Now to transfer that into a wardrobe of my own dresses. Actually, I have made a couple of them and sadly they both bit the dust. That is, I wound up giving them away to various thrift shops; no more! I am going to make a slew of these to wear as day dresses versus the sloppy cut off shorts, jersey sweat pants and the like that I have been subjecting myself and my dear husband to. Pair my shirtwaists up with some nice leather flats and I will be good to go with shopping errands, library runs, or even home duties. Yes!
9369: Shirtwaist day dress with contrasting collar and cuffs, short or three-quarter sleeves, and patch pockets.
9306: Marian Martin Mail Order 9306; circa late 1940s or early 1950s; Collared dress with button front and shoulder / sleeve yoke. Bodice is gathered along the front yoke and sits flat along the back. Bottom of dress has inverted pleat and large patch pockets located on hips with buttons. Self fabric belt. Here is a better photo:
Both my finds are vintage sized 14. Needless to say I will be enlargening this pattern a heapa bunch (as my cousin would say).
Every now and again I run into Marian Martin patterns and they intrigue me. Upon Googling information about the company I found this at Bizapedia:
Marian Martin Pattern Service, Inc. is a New York Domestic Business Corporation filed on July 29, 1931. The company’s filing status is listed as Inactive – Dissolution By Proclamation / Annulmen and its File Number is 41128.
For the most part I like most of the patterns I have seen by them. Too bad they are not still bringing us their style of vintage patterns. Then again, perhaps they would have updated with the times and not even be offering these type patterns. Hmm?
Move over June, your Mini You – The black June Cleaver is on the loose! Excuse me, let me get my pearls.
I can not believe I could not stand this pattern when I first laid eyes on it. Still not sure if it grew on me or simply the fact that I am experiencing a love affair with Sew Chic Patterns in general. Ms. Nash created a wedding gown with this pattern and it is divine. Go check it out at her web page.
Laura is a true educator and this sewalong will testify to that. There is going to be active learning, participation, and homework. No doubt I will not be having multiple WIPs while doing this project the month of June.
Umm, there are two outfits I need for July 27 – 29 so I may have to retract that, LOL. Maybe I’ll just have a sewing marathon in July to get them completed. If I recall according to the sewalong schedule we will be working on muslins and then after the course we are to make our frocks in chosen fashion fabric.
Get your muslin, scissors, marking paper, measuring tape, come join us and get ready to sew, learn, and share.
Sew excited here (pun intended) to be writing about my very first Sew Chic pattern project – the Starter Skirt.
You see, I have been amassing Sew Chic patterns for probably over a year now with the Tia dress as my first purchase. Recently, I found out the owner/designer, Laura Nash has made herself available on FB via a creative sewing group dedicated to Sew Chic pattern projects. Truly, it is thrilling for me and good business sense on her part to be available this way. Her warm, friendly personality inclined me to purchase (and continue to purchase) Sew Chic patterns. As a matter of fact, the Petticoat shall be next to join my collection.
Psst, we hear Laura is working on a new design to debut early fall, I think. Try as we might she is not letting the cat out of the bag much on this story.
With all the buzz at our lovely FB group I was itching to do some stitching of a Sew Chic pattern. So, I decided on the Starter Skirt and shopped my stash to make a wearable muslin. Ahh, this will do nicely and I have enough yardage. Kinda sorta.
My no-name serger was used for the first time. Yay! Boy had I forgotten the joys of electronic sewing. Many of you know we used to live off grid last year before relocating here.
The panels of this baby went together lickety split with the serger. The skirt went together like a dream. I really must give her a name and soon. Sally Serger is goofy. Any suggestions?
The Starter Skirt pattern is a level 2 (I think); great for beginners. The 12-gore view tickled my fancy this time along with the wide waistband from the other view. I like the wide waistbands to have something for my cinch belt to cling to. I should be embarrassed to share that I sometimes do not add hooks, eyes, or buttons because they would be concealed by the belt anyway. I know, do better Lyric.
It seems with each if my projects there is a glitch. This one was no different. There was not quite enough bedsheet for this skirt. I believe this one was for a double sized bed. As it turned out there was only a corner of the pattern piece that was not covered. A 20″ narrow triangular shape piece of sheeting to fill the area did the trick. Since this is a full skirt the area is concealed where I sewed that patch of a corner. Way to go for a $2.00 skirt especially considering I just laid $35-$40 for a Moda by Sandy Gervais cotton to make my next Starter Skirt. Note: I combined two project posts – my Starter Skirt toile (the green and white skirt) and the second one the pretty Moda fabric skirt.
The Starter Skirt is easey peasey to make. I thoroughly enjoyed working with this Sew Chic pattern and look forward to additional projects by that indie designer. I even learned a new technique with sewing the waistband part.
Let me give you a heads up. In June, Laura Nash is hosting a Fantasia Sew-A-Long. It begins June 6 and is going to be heapa buncha informative. So get your hiney on over to Facebook and check us out.
Pencil skirt and a peplum. This blog post is being written as I construct this outfit. In my mind’s eye this project should turn out womanly, classy, with a bit of sass. My friend Cinnaspice sent this beautiful African fabric to me and I simply must do it justice. The only thing missing is a matching head wrap because I do not have the hutzpah to pull it off. Tis a shame too. A new pair of shoes would be nice to wear with it but one must not get beside oneself, eh.
Folkwear 255 has been in my stash for upwards of 20 years. This is the first time I cut the tissues. One day I will make the entire swing suit. Perhaps with dupioni or something fabulous. But, for now, let’s focus on the pencil skirt. The pattern goes up to an x-large, 34″ waist, 44″ hips both of which are smaller than me. Pattern grading is not my forte, but I did the best I could for now. You see, the goal is to wear my outfit on Saturday, April 1 and today is March 26 (1 week, ay yi yi).
The steps I took:
Compared numbers of envelope (knew I would be off the chart – yuk, yuk).
Measured the tissue minus the darts.
Tissue fit the skirt pieces, kinda sorta.
Added necessary measurement by taping additional tissue paper down the length of the back and front pieces and the waist band.
The toile shows that the top is too big overall. There is too much cleavage and check out the shoulders. The princess seam is not lying over the apex either. Simply too big! I always do that. Look at the pattern envelope, pick the size that I should fit, if in between I go up a size. Now, I was taught all patterns (well most) are for a size “B” bust. Yet, look at this. There was no way I needed a full bust adjustment. Right?
I realize I should finish my seams with binding. As you know, I have a hand crank sewing machine and quite frankly I do not want to use time binding them. So, I decided to pink the seams instead. While writing, it occurred to me that I should line this skirt. Hmmm, I may have something in my stash. I have yet to line an unlined skirt. I’ll bet it is simple to do, right?
Meanwhile, I hung the skirt at the end of a sewing session and it looks like a big rectangle; not a classy, sexy pencil skirt!
The next morning lo and behold Gertie is modeling one of her dresses and commented that she tailors the knee area to make it “Mad Men” style. That is it! I decided to chop away at my skirt. I should have written the measurements, but I simply put the skirt on inside out and commenced to pinning it next to my body where I wanted the new seam. Truth be told I re-sewed the waist area at least three times making it smaller. Now, think about it, I have cut away all the extra inches added from the tissue fitting. Obviously I need pattern fitting lessons for not only am I wasting fabric, but I am wasting time.
Sorry for the blur. Working on antiquated public library computers and programs! You probably can’t tell, but the top fit superbly. Fitted at waist and comfy. The skirt does not look “Mad Men”, but it is okay. Hiking it up to use the restroom proved to be interesting as it is. I don’t know how Gertie gets into all her way cool slim pencil skirts and dresses.
The skirt lining came out swell. Kinda proud of myself for attempting it. Now I will have to purchase lining fabric for most of my upcoming skirt projects. Sigh, who said sewing one’s own clothing is less expensive, LOL.
The Kastrup top from How To Do Fashion is a recent stumble upon for me from the gals over at We Sew Retro. Had to have the pattern.
As it turns out this pattern comes only in pdf form. Not my fave. Plus, I was not in a hurry so if given the choice I would have preferred tissue. So, check it, I paid $12.50 for the privilege of downloading the pattern. Since we do not have proper set up at home I had to print this baby out at the local library. I paid a whopping $8.50 (.25/page) and now I have to take precious time cutting and taping paper together. $21.00 for a stupid pattern. I know it sounds like I am complaining. Well, I guess I am, but I do think the top is kinda cute.
Look at the little cap sleeve! It takes minimal fabric. Oh, and the pattern calls for all manner of wovens. I just knew it was knit so imagine my delight when I found out it wasn’t.
I am curious how these size “J” cups will look in this cute little top. I’m bold enough to find out and I believe there is something in my stash that I could use as a toile. Yippee! If all turns out well I will be making several of these babies. They look so comfy. As always, stay tuned for a Lyrically styled version.
The Dottie Angel frock is country chic at its best. When I first saw this pattern it was love at first sight. We were living on a homestead in the South trying to build a small family farm and it spoke to me. Simply perfect for a house dress to be worn while doing chores and even while chillaxing at home. Even the hubby liked it (which makes sense because he likes homely looking dresses). This dress screams “homely”; don’t you think?
As one who enjoys repurposing this is a good project for a bed sheet design. I am curious as to what this will look like on a granny such as myself. Tickles and giggles! When we first arrived at our new home I purchased a pair of black ankle boots. A photograph with this frock and those boots out by the woods should will be interesting. As for Spring/Summer wear I have a pair of silver thong sandals that put me in the mind of Birkenstock knock-offs that I think will be cute paired with this dress on a sunny day!
Somehow getting the hint that the Dottie Angel is a big deal I Googled to see what I could find. “House On Hill Road” was one of the sites that featured the Dottie Angel. Apparently there is information on Pinterest too though I have yet to visit them. The pattern reviews that I did read indicated the instructions to not be on point with confusing steps which make the construction of this dress needlessly difficult. Ay yi yi! The dress looks so basic on the envelope. I decided to read over the instructions for myself before cutting into fabric.
I confess – I will not be making a toile. I will; however, tissue fit and check the tuck placements along with checking for appropriate length. Mine must be below the knee even while sitting.
The dress employs french seams and bias tape up the wazoo. Get this — the tape is on the inside; no one will see it except me. Oh, I guess you will because if I am going to do all of that for a simple house/work frock I am going to at least take a shot of my handiwork to show you, LOL. Maybe I have a crazy colour in my stash. So, I think I will make this dress as instructed by the Simplicity people this time and see how it goes. Perhaps subsequent (and there will assuredly be some) Dottie Angels may undergo Sew Lyrically styled adjustments.
Okay, so here’s the deal. Since it has been so long since I blogged I did not want you to think I had fallen off the world. Been busy relocating and looking for work. My original plan was to blog about the entire project now; but, guess what? I left the cord for my digital camera at home and can not upload the photographs of the fabric chosen for this project. Therefore, my experience with this dress will be a near future blog post.
I will share this, finally I shopped my stash. It is always so cool when I read you ladies “shopping your stashes”. 🙂 The two larger pieces are bed sheets, the pocket (small piece of fabric) is a quilting cotton. Now, here’s hoping I have suitable bias tape for I do not feel like going through the rigamaroll of making some for this project.
To keep us all eagerly anticipating the Sew Lyrically styled Dottie Angel, let’s check out some other gals’ frocks.
Stay tuned with me gals (and guys if there are any following me).
Tell you the truth I was a little concerned about wearing this lime green in all its voluminous cottonness. This little ditty debuted at our Regional Convention a couple of weeks ago where she showed up and showed out! 😃
It has been concluded that three quarter circle skirts are becoming on these hips moreso than the full circle ones. Plus they take less fabric to sew. That is always a plus in my book! Oh how I long for the 1 yard skirt days again; coming soon, LOL.
Oh, I have got to give kudos to the elastic cinch belt. It looks like a rainbow of these babies will be making their way into my wardrobe. I like how they stay in place and impart a feeling of support (ya think it’s time for a corset perhaps-I keep putting the wearing of them off?).
Now on to re-purpose/re-finish the pink gingham shirtwaist that has been hanging in my She Shack (sewing room) for upwards of six months.
My sister asked me to show her how to make a circle skirt. I am excited as well as honored to have been asked!
Not wanting to wait I began discussing basic sewing principles a couple of weeks ago with her. In our humid climate I suggested cotton or cotton blend fabrics. I can’t wait to see what she chooses. Not too long ago I found a pair of pinking shears for asteal. A nice tool to start out her sewing kit. Plus, pinking is a nifty vintage seam finish technique, yes!
She’s such a nifty girl and even thought my Tabitha (1925 hand crank sewing machine) was cool. I have read these are great to learn on because the student is better able to control speed.
First of all I get to spend an afternoon with a beautifully positive, spiritual-minded young lady with whom I have the pleasure of serving the most high God Jehovah, in the full time service as Pioneers. Sewing, as a skill, is something we may use on into the new system; how useful!
Sissy and I share a love of vintage styling. She’s made an excellent choice for a first project? Not to mention she will be absolutely darling in her circle skirts. I suggested we “beast it” and knock out two or more for this her first project.
Baby girl decided to start out with one skirt though. Bless her heart she purchased fabric from expensive Hobby Lobby (we’re plain folk down this way living on modes sums) and they took all her money. Phooey on them! Big Sister has got to tell her about the apps where she may get sewing related discounts.
Sending a special shout out of thanks to Sunset Happy Glow, our sister who lovingly took all the photographs of our afternoon sewing soiree. And where would I have been without Gulf Coast’s Daughter who provided a special treat for me – bean pie! Not one, but two mind you. One was to be mine to take home but guess what!!! Sweet Pea here and Sunset Happy Glow did not tell me that one of the pies was mine to keep – they ate it!
Seriously, I hope to see her this weekend in her very first circle skirt creation. Perhaps she will grace us with a stylish photo.
This day goes down as one of the best. Now, on to my own circle skirt to wear this weekend along with a Bree top (which is simply a good old-fashioned peasant blouse, LOL).
My ties were done sew wrong. Again, I simply misread/didn’t see the instructions. After I found them they were quite easy to understand.
An aside: The big four pattern companies have ruined what could have been a great sewist I tell ya.
With their pattern instructions all in order and even numbered. Oh, and we won’t even talk about the lightweight tissue paper pieces all marked and notched telling sewist wanna-bes exactly where pieces are supposed to meet. The nerve of them.
In printing my pdf I used photocopy paper . . . thick as all get out (which I kinda thought was good, kinda sorta); though a tad cumbersome. When I printed the first set of instructions I didn’t think about it being coloured and I did not want to deplete her ink, then the printer jammed a bit. So, I wound up printing elsewhere. Additionally, I found separate skirt instructions on Loran’s site that I didn’t realize existed and needed to print. Duh!
Some of the instructions I printed were double-sided, others were not. Some were coloured, others were black and white. Now, while that is probably not a big deal, remember, you’re reading Lyric’s blog. The lady born feet first who does many things “bass ackwards” as my mamma used to say. When it comes to the sew-a-long I will reprint the instructions, one-sided, thank you very much.
Moving on from bodice construction to the skirt . . . if you think the bodice was a comedy of errors, wait till you hear what happened while putting together the skirt. Now mind you, I stand by the fact that this project is easey peasey, LOL.
There is 3.5″ of fabric beyond the edge of the bodice! On both sides! Shoot, I am simply going to fold the whole shebang back and keep it moving! I did measure the waist area of the skirt pattern piece. It dawned on me that I did NOT fold the darts in and measure the paper pattern bodice pieces before cutting them out or I would have seen the discrepancy. I did measure the waist area of the skirt section and it was perfect for my waist.
FYI, I was sent the size 36/38 pattern. The cutting lines between the two sizes is negligible, IMHO. So, I’m still scratching my head at the waist/facing discrepancy. The only thing I am coming up with is that the bodice is/was not as long as the skirt’s waist. For I did measure the skirt but did not measure the bodice. Again, I’m cracking up at all my faux pas (er ah, did I spell that correctly?)
For the sew-a-long I’ll trace the bodice onto tissue paper, elongate the ends, and deepen the armscyce.
Try as I might I can’t seem to get away from wanting a red and white polka dot dress like the original. Not so much because I don’t have imagination but by golly ’cause they are two of my favourite color combinations!
Maybe between now and the sew-a-long something else will catch my eye, but for now my name is written all over a correctly done version.
Thank you all for hanging in there with me during this dress construction. Now, what I need from you in an honest critique. It won’t hurt my feelings. I’d rather now than when I get my fashion fabric of choice! Plus, I’m trying to grow as a sewist.
In General: The pattern has only three pieces – a dream to make up quickly. I would venture to say this dress may be made in one afternoon. The biggest thing I would possibly change is making the instructions into one file (which will probably be done for the SAL). The pro tips Loran added were on point. I am grateful for them.
For Me: The bodice will have to be lengthened to match the skirt and wrap around my waist properly. The armscyce will be deepened as I do not want to tie the shoulder ties differently thereby making the girls covered less; i.e., adjusting the ties may lower the armscyce but that effects how much my bust is covered (or not). Also, I am thinking of lengthening the skirt. For this project I only did a 1″ hem, the instructions called for 1.5″ and I believe I would like that better, but I do not want to lose length in the process.
See you all at the sew-a-long! Oh, and don’t forget to write your comments and constructive criticisms below. Thanks again for visiting and hanging in there with me.
Does it make sense to have a pattern with minimal pieces, full instructions (with real photographs nonetheless) and still make blunders? Hey, step into my Lyrically styled world. I am cracking myself up. Well, here we go with the continuation of my 50s style wrap sun dress pattern testing.
Loran highly rcommended stay stitching the edges of the bodice. She even said we would be sad if we did not. Honestly, I did not measure where to put the stay stitching. I eye-balled and did the stitching a skosh away from the pinked edges. Then, I noticed the fabric . . . .
I believe the tension on my machine needs adjusting because the fabric gathered as I stay stitched. The funny thing is when I sew two fabrics together there is no such “gathering”. It only happened when I did one layer of fabric. Oh, and by the way, I am using a cotton fabric, medium weight. Sew, straight to the iron I go hoping smoothing the threads and pressing will help. Oy vey! I decided to keep it moving. On to the bias tape. Oh boy!!
I had a time of it installing this tape. First of all, I went to my stash and you know I had 1.5 packages of two different 1/4″ yellow tapes, right!!! The other day I stopped by Wally World and they had only the .5″ wide tape and Loran advised against using the double wide tape. JoAnn Fabrics is 70 miles away (literally) and I do not have the time to mail order tape, not to mention shipping fees. make-do with what I have then. I am telling myself, “It’s only a muslin and I can wear this dress around our farm” and keep it moving
Second of all — the dang tape is “uneven”. I don’t mean it was manufactured that way, oh noooo, “I” installed it incorrectly apparently. Here is what I did:
Opened the short side
Placed the right side of the tape to the right side of my fabric
Sewed the tape in the opened fold of the short side
Brought the longer side of the tape to the back of the fabric
Stitched bias tape on the right side, catching in the longer side on the inside of the dress
I did not pin the tape in place. Loran mentioned it would be easier to stretch the tape around the curves if it was not pinned in place. What I ran into while stitching the tape:
“Some” areas there was too much fabric to be totally encased into the bias tape fold after bringing it up and over the edge of the fabric. Therefore, in spots (the wrong side) you see the pinked edges of the fabric.Stay stitching is visible along the whole of the bodice. I am thinking that means I should stitch closer to the pinked edge. ???
Considering the bunching of fabric and the visible stay stitching; perhaps I should rip out the stay stitching on the other bodice side. The thing is . . I do not want to re-stitch if my machine needs repair. I do not know how to adjust (fix) the tension mechanism. In the past when I have turned the knob in any direction . . . nothing happened. Stitches did not lengthen or shorten. Okay, for the fun of it tomorrow I will get a piece of scrap fabric from this project and lay with the knob and see if I get a looser stitch. if I see no difference in moving the knob I will go ahead a install the bias tape and then trim close to the stitching making sure the edge is enclosed. IF I do get a looser stitch I will rip and re-sew the edge stitching closer to the pinking.