Here is my August Make A Garment A Month project. The back of this Simplicity 1418 pattern caught my attention straight away. Even at my size I think I can pull this off. To be sure, I will make the version with a high modesty panel underneath the lattice work. Wouldn’t want back fat showing now would I? Though this is a modern pattern I think the dress style is reminiscent of the 1950’s and will fit within my new wardrobe nicely.
For the first time I decided to make a muslin. All the pro sewist divas make them and after all one of my goals is to grow at my craft. Yesterday I cut out the bodice. Since the skirt is simply a rectangle with a cute pleat I’ll forgo making a test piece for it. This muslin is a thrifted bed sheet.
Upon initial try-on the bodice seems a little tight at the waist. The back details of this dress include a modesty panel and lattice-work. I had the panel piece in place, but thought I didn’t have to worry about the lattice. That being said, those pieces show exactly where to place the sides of the back. I need to quit being lazy and add the lattice mock-up piece so I can get a better idea of fit. That is, after all, the purpose of the muslin. I really need to stop trying to cut corners if I am going to take my sewing to the next level, sigh. That being said, I am wondering if I am not also going to have to at least cut out and mock up the top portion of the skirt. I want this dress to fit properly in the waist area and my figure is not in proportion as per the pattern envelope. I will be grading between sizes.
After adding the sleeves to muslin and subsequent try on, the waist is definitely too small and I need more space in the bust area. Pattern alterations from what I can tell include:
- Bust +1″
- Waist +5″
- Hips +2″
- Bodice lengthening +1″
- Modesty panel raised +1″
- Hem +2″
Bodice resizing. Added necessary inches via taping paper to the original pieces so I would not forget when cutting out the fashion fabric.
From where I stand this is a lot of altering. Basically my measurements were not on the pattern envelope at all!
Full Bust Adjustment:
This is my first time applying a full bust adjustment. Wasn’t as scary as I thought. Many thanks to Mary of Idle Fancy and Elisalex for sharing their expertise. I did not see a big difference in the two tutorials with exception to color coding the stitching lines. As a visual learner that was very helpful.
Stay tuned as this cute little number comes together.
- Fabric: eBay seller – institchestn – $9.00
- Muslin: $1.00, thrifted bed sheet
- Bias tape: Under $2.00/pack x 2
- Invisible zipper – Under $2.00
The lattice work came together rather easily. The instructions were on point. I was torn between using green, red, taupe, or the butterscotch coloring. Since red is my favorite color I literally forced myself to not use it. Green is a color that I do not have much of in my wardrobe and I felt taupe was just too boring. In the end I let the hubby decide. As I’ve been working on this I am thinking I would like a new pair of taupe pumps to complement this dress. Now I kinda which I would have gone with the taupe bias tape. Then again, the butterscotch would have been nice. Maybe red?
This dress will debut October 5 at an assembly. I kind of don’t want to wear it before then which is why I did not put it on for photographs. Sprawled across my cutting table does it no justice, of course. Sigh. Also, I’m not good at selfies though I did pull out my tripod for this occasion. I’d just rather wait until the special day when I will have make-up on and hopefully a new pair of taupe shoes. I suppose of there was enough clatter I’d put it on. I tell ya, it’s times like these that I wish I had a dress form for I’ve noticed many sewists display their creations on them.
Just now seeing the photos I realize this one is out of focus, grrrr.
I really like the lattice back and enjoyed putting it together.